鎌倉 Do not be Defeated by the Rain (or Surf)

In between visiting the great Buddha and Hase-Kannon Temple, we also checked out some of the smaller temples of Kamakura. Like many of the small temples I’ve visited, though the pictures are not as spectacular as the famous ones, their history reveals so much about the area I’m visiting. These temples are worth visiting for their insight into the past alone.

These temples are actually a perfect pair in terms of history, as both tell the tale of Kamakura Buddhism, namely the tale of the founder of Nichiren Buddhism, Nichiren himself. Both temples were run by disciples to Nichiren. The first, shuzen-ji (修禅寺), was the home of a devout desciple of Nichiren, whos residence was made into a temple upon his death. The second temple was originally the residence of someone keeping Nichiren’s desciple prisoner, but was converted to Nichiren buddhism and created the temple.

P1030563P1030577

The first temple, Shuzen-ji (修禅寺) was on the way to the Great Buddha. It was deserted and I couldn’t get a stamp, but when we walked around the back of the temple we discovered several surfboards. As it was a rather windy day, I have a sneaking suspicion that the monk had snuck off to catch some waves. Can’t say I blame him, Kamakura bay looks perfect for surfing. From this point it was ‘surfing temple’ in my head.

P1030570P1030733

The owner of Surfing temple had tried to convert his lord to Nichiren Buddhism and as a result was ordered to abandon his faith. He had resolved to kill himself on the anniversary of Nichiren’s death but his lord fell ill and needed his help. Shijo Kingo Yoritomo, for that was his name, was well versed in medicine and nursed his lord back to health. He was granted three times the land and forgiven his attempts at conversion as a result. His house became a temple when he died.

P1030560 P1030557

The second temple belonged to a man named Yadoya Mitsunori. To understand this temple one needs to know a little about Nichiren himself so let’s have a brief look at his life.

Nichiren studied a variety of schools of Buddhism but became convinced that none were the right path. He read the lotus sutra during his studies and decided that its study was the only way to attain enlightenment. He founded his own school and began to petition the government to ban all other forms of Buddhism because they were not ‘correct’. Clearly this did not make him any friends and he was summoned for questioning in 1271. He was kidnapped by a group of scholars who tried to behead him but stopped when they witnessed a great glowing orb in the sky that appeared like the moon. He was exiled several times throughout his life for insulting other buddhist sects and eventually went into voluntary exile in 1274 because the government had ingored his treatise 3 times.

This is considered the most accurate drawing of Nichiren

The second temple, Kosokuji (光則寺), was owned by a man named Yadoya Mitsunori. He was imprisoning a disciple of Nichiren while Nichiren was in exile, however, this punishment led to the owner converting to Nichiren buddhism and leaving his house to become a temple upon his death.

P1030815 P1030821

The stone in the middle of the temple garden has the poem ‘Ame ni mo Makezu’ 雨にも負けず which means ‘do not be defeated by the rain‘. Certainly Nichiren was determined not to be defeated by those that disagreed with his teachings and succeeded in founding a sect of Buddhism that still operates today. Read the full text of the poem here.

P1030816P1030818

These two temples taught me about a sect of Buddhism I had only heard of. Though this post only covers the life of Nichiren and not the history of his sect, I think its a good place to start in looking at this strand of Buddhism. I haven’t even attempted to delve into scripture as I can’t pretend to know anything about Buddhist texts and interpretation.

京都 Snapshots: November

And so we plunge into December, and I begin to freeze in my woefully lacking-in-central-heating room. My air con does heat, but it also doesn’t seem to know what 21 degrees is and aims for more like 30 degrees, leaving me perpetually too hot or too cold.It seems Japan  missed the memo that central heating is actually a pretty good idea.

This minor issue aside, I look forward to my first Christmas in Japan, and it seems Japan’s looking forward to it too – there are Christmas lights and decorations everywhere. Hopefully my next month will be filled with fun things to write about even though its getting cold.

Also exciting news blog-wise: I now have my own domain – Japangie.com! I had to buy a storage upgrade because of all the pictures I’m hosting on here and it came with a domain which is pretty cool.

For now lets mop up those bits and pieces from last month that have been sitting by waiting their turn for some attention. This will be a miscellany of temples, interesting buildings, Christmas lights and food, so I hope you enjoy some snapshots of what I’ve been up to.

紅葉 Autumn is Ending

Here are a few more pictures of the koyo (turning of the leaves) in Kyoto. This month was definitely koyo month for my blog – beautiful red leaves everywhere. Sadly it rained recently and most of the red leaves were blown away, so no more picturesque temples with autumn colouring I’m afraid.

These pictures were taken in the park nearby, by the Kamo River and near the Heian Jingu.

P1020049P1020095 P1020037 P1020029P1020046 P1020057 P1020091

 武道センター The Kyoto City Budo Centre

I came across this building on my way to Heian Jingu. I initially thought it was a temple and went in to check it out. It turns out it’s actually a dojo, and not only that but its the oldest martial arts training hall in Japan, built in 1899. At this dojo  you can train in most Japanese martial arts – Akido, Judo, Kendo, Karate etc. as well as ping-pong for some reason. Apparently they are pretty foreigner friendly (though they don’t speak English you’re still welcome to go) and offer one-off classes, so if you’re into martial arts you can train in a beautiful old dojo as part of your trip to Japan!

P1020088

 妙傳寺 Myoden-ji

This is yet another interesting building I found when I was wandering around Heian Jingu. This is a temple belonging to the Nichiren sect of Buddhism, founded in the 15th Century. It has been rebuilt several times – monks from Enryaku-ji burned down Myoden-ji in 1536 as part of Tenbun Hokke no Ran which was basically a war between the three main sects of Buddhism in Kyoto. The Tendai monks burned down temples like Myoden-ji for their affiliation to Nichiren Buddhism (Nichiren Buddhism was in competition with Tendai for taxing the people and owning land). In the process they also burned down over half of Northern Kyoto and a lot of Southern Kyoto too. So much for the peaceful teachings of Buddhism…

The current Myoden-ji was built in 1708. I couldn’t find anyone to stamp my book (it was after hours) but I had a quick look around.

P1020306 P1020309P1020315P1020318

御辰稲荷神社 Otatsu Inari Shrine

This small shrine is opposite Heian Jingu, and I don’t think it gets many visitors as everyone wants to see Heian Jingu instead. I decided to go in and have a look because I think even small shrines are interesting to look around. This is one of the many sub-temples dedicated to Inari, the god of foxes and rice (the god of Fushimi Inari). The temple did have a Shuin so I got my book stamped. As it is a smaller temple the stamp is very simple – just the name of the shrine, the word ‘worship’ and the date – no fancy calligraphy but still nice to remember the shrine.

P1020066 P1020067 P1020070 P1020079 P1020322

Papa Johns Cheese Cake Company

This is a small shop just behind Doshisha University’s Imadegawa campus. I love cheesecake so I was happy to find that we have a shop so close. The cheesecake was absolutely delicious and the shop itself feels cosy. I would recommend it if you are living in Japan and craving cheesecake. I really like fruit cheesecake so I got a banana slice and a raspberry one, both were superb. Yes, two slices, sometimes you just can’t decide, and maybe you shouldn’t have to.

Photo 11-11-2014 2 49 52 pm Photo 11-11-2014 2 53 33 pm Photo 11-11-2014 2 53 37 pm

Cafe-Creperie Le Bretagne

I got some really nice crepes at this place in Sanjo Teramachi doori. They also have this creperie in France so you know its going to be good, though it is a little pricey for students (around 1500円, £8, for most of the dishes).  My crepes were scrambled egg, ham and some onion mustard. They were really tasty. I would definitely recommend this place if you feel like some non-Japanese food for a change.

P1020599

土支社エーブ Doshisha Eve

Japan really likes Christmas, or at least Christmas decorations. My university gave us 3 days off for ‘Doshisha Eve’, the university’s cultural fair where clubs create stalls and they get acts to perform to the students. I dropped by briefly but I was mostly doing other sightseeing stuff (like Kobe, or Kiyomizudera). The Christmas tree they’ve installed is pretty impressive and almost makes up for them making us go to class on both Christmas eve and Boxing day. Almost.

P1020585 P1020586 P1020587

花 Flowers

I have recently got a job at Tadg’s Gastropub, which serves hard-to-find foods such as decent fish and chips and chicken pot pie. They also do craft beer and ale, so it’s basically a perfect job for me. Last week we had a wedding party book up the pub and at the end they left us some of the flowers to say thank you. I got to take some home, they’re still alive even a week later! I hope the couple have a long and happy marriage.

P1030461 P1030464 P1030467

I hope you all had a lovely November and have sufficient jumpers to get you through the colder months coming up! Next month we’ll look at Christmas and New year in Japan, and if I’m lucky, maybe it’ll even snow!