京都 Snapshots: October

Visiting places in Kyoto usually involves lots to see and do at just one location and as a result I can usually dedicate a whole blog post to one subject, but if I only published posts on each big topic I would inevitably miss out photos and moments that aren’t worthy of a whole post by themselves. This post is for those pictures that would otherwise never get published despite being interesting. I will probably create a post like this for each month so this one will be for October.

 先斗町 Pontocho

While I will probably revisit Pontocho as it is a very interesting area, I would like to at least introduce it a little now. Those who have read ‘Geisha‘ by Liza Dalby will recognise the name at least. Pontocho is one of the areas of Kyoto where it is possible to see Geisha. Geisha are women that entertain businessmen through conversation, dance and music. The word ‘geisha’ (芸者) literally means ‘artist’. Contrary to outside perception Geisha are not normally prostitutes, instead they are considered entertainers and most do not sleep with clients. Their kimono are beautiful and cost  thousands of pounds and they can be seen travelling between appointments in both Pontocho and nearby Gion (just across the river from Pontocho). While it feels a bit awkward to take pictures of people who are clearly travelling between jobs I did take a few when we came across geisha waiting to meet a client.

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Pontocho itself is worth a visit simply for the huge variety of restaurants and the beauty of the street itself – it is a narrow pedestrian street lined with restaurants on either side, each displaying a lantern. In the summer the restaurants on the river side of the street have seating on porches over the river. Most of the restaurants are reasonably priced and many have menus in English. A few have amusing displays like the miniature food pictured below. I’m not entirely sure where I took the second picture but I have a feeling it was somewhere near Pontocho. No, I have no idea what’s going on either.

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鴨川 Kamogawa

The Kamo river is something I have already talked about before but it is ever-changing with the time of day and season and it’s always beautiful. There is a huge variety of wildlife on the Kamogawa, especially birds – I’ve seen herons, egrets, mallards and kites alongside many other unfamiliar birds. There are also giant salamanders upstream – I hope to see one before I leave! If you want to see how huge they get check out this article – this salamander had to have a policeman keeping an eye on it so the public weren’t scared.

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京都タワー Kyoto Tower

Anyone who  has visited Kyoto has at least seen Kyoto tower – it’s slap-bang in front of Kyoto Station. Though I’ve been twice, both times were at night and so I didn’t get to see quite as far as it is possible to in the daytime, however, looking at all the lights in Kyoto sprawling out around you gives a real sense of how big Kyoto actually is. Kyoto has a tendency to feel more like a town than a city if you live outside the centre and seeing that it stretches all the way from the mountains in the West to the East is spectacular. If you do go up at night try to spot To-ji (東寺) pagoda which is lit up at night. Tickets for adults cost 770円 and it’s definitely worth a visit.

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嵐山 Arashiyama

While I will definitely be going back to Arashiyama in daylight, I would like to share some of the pictures I took at night. Arashiyama is to the West of Kyoto and is home to loads of temples, a bamboo forest and a monkey park – you can easily spend the whole day there (and I intend to). When we arrived (I went with my parents) it was just starting to get dark and though I wouldn’t really recommend going at night as everything shuts and you can’t really see, it was lovely to watch the sun set over the Ōi River (大堰川), a river much larger than the Kamogawa.

P1010050C P1010059 P1010061 P1010074c広隆寺 Koryu-ji

Koryu-ji is a temple in West Kyoto that probably doesn’t get many visitors owing to the fact that it’s completely out-of-the-way of everything else (though it is on the way to Arashiyama if you’re willing to get off the train). The main attraction of Koryu-ji is the impressive collection of buddhist statues it has on display in one of the halls. The exhibition costs around 500円 and consists of one room, but there are a lot of statues with some dating back to the 11th century. Worth a visit if you enjoy Buddhist art and historical artifacts. The temple grounds are large and it has a beautiful mossy forest garden. Perhaps not worth the journey for some but it was enjoyable nonetheless.

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京都 A Cure for Rainy Days…

So recently the weather here has been not-so-hot and pretty damp. I’m not really complaining as I’d rather it be a bit chilly and rainy than hot and humid but it does mean the traditional sightseeing activities of Kyoto aren’t on the menu. Luckily ice cream is always on the menu. One of the best things to do on a rainy day in Kyoto is to go to one of the thousands of restaurants, cafes and ice cream parlours. I must confess I have eaten ice-cream for three days in a row now and I’m not asking for forgiveness.

Japan seems to carry this stereotype of being non-dairy. People say that Japanese are lactose intolerant so you can’t find milk, ice cream or cheese. This is totally untrue. Yes, Japanese cheese is not to be trusted – mostly rubbish and expensive and occasionally mixed with fish (there are things that look like cheese strings in the convenience store which are a mixture of processed cheese and fish. Yup. Also the Philadelphia I bought suspiciously doesn’t seem to go off until next year and is weirdly thick…) Other than cheese, Japan excels in the dairy department. There is milk available in both convenience stores and supermarkets and they sell Häagen-Dazs ice cream too! However, this is not a tale of cheap convenience store ice cream. No, this is a tale of Karafuneya.

Karafuneya (かれふね屋) is an ice cream cafe in Sanjo (三条) near the shopping districts. What struck me the first time I laid eyes on it was the gigantic ice cream in the window. I’m talking 2 ft tall. Of course, like all window food in Japan, its made of plastic, but it gives you an idea of how big this monster is. The picture doesn’t do it justice. It’s also 50,000円 (£278), slightly out of my price-range. Thankfully there is also a wall display of the hundreds of normal-sized ice creams you can try. These are by no means tiny but aren’t quite so colossal. They have a huge variety of sundaes which includes traditional chocolate and strawberry; more Japanese flavoured green tea and sesame; and then the downright weird that is pork cutlet and fried prawn.

I think we can call this art

I went to this Mecca of ice cream on both Friday and Saturday. The first time I had a chocolate and banana waffle sundae, which seemed to have a whole waffle cut up into it. As I’m an idiot and thought I’d still be hungry I also had a katsu sandwich (fried pork) with chips, which proved to be too much (the picture on the menu suggested it would be small, this was a lie) but still delicious. This is definitely a place to go to for lunch, not just for the sundaes. The chips are the best I’ve had in Kyoto, hands down – thin and really crispy. The second trip I had a ‘strawberry festival’ which, as you would expect, was overloaded with strawberries and strawberry ice cream. It was glorious.

The ice creams range from about 700円 (£3.90) to 1000円 (£5.60) and are pretty good value considering how huge they are. Chips are 460円 (£2.60) and worth every penny – the portions are huge and I would eat them all day if I could.

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So if the weather’s not in your favour when you’re in Kyoto, Karafuneya is definitely a solid choice. Another option for the sweet toothed is ‘Sweets Paradise‘ which I went to today. As you can guess, they specialise in cakes and ice-cream. Just over an hour of all-you-can-eat (食べ放題) is 1,530円 (£8.50) and so worth it. I would suggest booking if you go at lunchtime because its pretty popular. They are also based in Sanjo. They have soft serve, chocolate fountain, a wall of cakes and even pizza and pasta. I took a picture of my first plate but quickly succumbed to just eating everything without stopping to document it. Perfect for a rainy day or if you’re just craving cake (or both).

Photo 02-11-2014 12 52 24 pmEPhoto 02-11-2014 1 07 39 pm Thus ends my confession. I ate too much and it was glorious. I will now return to eating udon and okonomiyaki (japanese pancake-type thing, will explain in a separate post) cooked on my crappy single hob in my room. Hopefully more exciting touristy posts coming soon, don’t worry!