京都 Take a Pretty Purikura

Purikura is one of those phenomenon that is probably unique to Japan. Yes, malls in the UK and elsewhere have photo booths that offer ‘fun’ photos, but their main purpose is clinical, harshly lit passport photos. They don’t exude an air of fun, they feel like going to the dentist. Japan has successfully transformed the photo-machine into a consumer-driven, music-blasting, often-bright-pink monstrosity. They created purikura (in 1995), a combination of ‘Print’ and ‘Club’ which in Japanese sound like pu-rin-to (プリント) and ku-ra-bu (クラブ) creating pu-ri-ku-ra (プリクラ) as a shortened version. It also conveniently sounds like ‘picture’ – instantly catchy.

Prior to coming to Japan I was aware of purikura; I’d read about it in one of those ‘omg Japan is soo weird’ articles or perhaps heard about it through a friend. I thought that I wouldn’t enjoy purikura – isn’t it really vain to take pictures of yourself and decorate them? Well, yes, but it turns out its also super fun and great to do with friends.

You can find purikura machines in most shopping centres and arcades, they tend to be in clusters of at least 5. The area around them is always plastered with pictures of girls and slogans like ‘fashion’ or slogans that just don’t make any sense but are in English and therefore ‘cool’.

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This is how purikura works:

  1. You pay an amount, usually between 200円 and 400円 (~£1 – £2.20) depending on the machine (the ones that do full body shots cost more), and press ‘start’.
  2. You then panic as you are shown a range of options for your picture with a big timer ticking down to when the machine picks for you. There is never enough time (they give you around 10 seconds), especially if you don’t actually speak Japanese. You end up with something, probably not what you wanted, but you can live with it. Hopefully you’ve managed to pick an option that includes multiple people and isn’t all selfies (thankfully we’ve avoided this so far).
  3. Get in that booth. Once you’ve clicked the screen you have about 5 seconds to arrange yourself in pose before it takes the picture. Try to fit in all of your friends and don’t blink – no retakes. The whole time there will be sugary, fast paced J-pop blasting at you in the background, adding to your frenzy. We went at Halloween once, so naturally we had crazed Halloween style J-pop declaring ‘This Is Halloween‘ on a loop the whole time. Terrifying.
  4. Once you’ve taken all your pictures (usually 5), move around to the side of the booth with the electronic pens – its time to sticker and draw all over your picture. Notice that your eyes are at least twice as big as they should be. If you look closely your nose has become longer to accommodate. It really is amazing technology – it’s all done instantly and automatically. The machine has also airbrushed your skin for you. The stickers are pretty fun, usually a collection of cats, cute things and the word ‘fashion’ or something similar in about 10 different fonts. Also some bonus English words that don’t really make sense. There are also eyelash, eye colour, lip colour and eye-liner options if you want to spend ages drawing extra make-up on your face. There is a timer for this bit but its a lie – it freezes at 60 seconds and lets  you finish in your own time.
  5. You then get to choose the layout of the printed pictures so you can make sure that you have enough pictures for everyone in your group. The larger the group the more tiny your copy of the pictures will be. Some of the machines let you pick your ‘best’ ones to keep, but the issue with this is if you don’t realise what this means before the timer goes down you’re going to get only 2 or 3 pictures that you clicked on randomly when you panicked.
  6. Wait for your pictures to print. Take a deep breath, you probably didn’t breath enough while you were freaking out about the timers. Rejoice at how kawaii (かわいい – cute) your pictures are. Cut them up with tiny scissors and distribute them among the group.

That is the average purikura experience. Sounds stressful? It is a bit, but it’s also pretty fun – certainly gets the adrenaline going. I’m not going to publish any of my purikura due to friends’ privacy, but here’s a stereotypical one – yes they do actually look like that (sometimes less pink though).

But wait, there’s more! You don’t just have to do boring standard purikura, no! You can dress up! In Sanjo’s Game Panic arcade (located near Loft) there is a stall next to the Land of Purikura (think about 20 of those machines all together, its pretty deafening) which sells full fancy dress outfits that you can wear just to take pictures in (for a price, of course). There are also dressing tables with curling tongs and straighteners attached for you to make sure you look your best.

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Sadly,  guys aren’t allowed in without a girl in this particular purikura area so you’ll have to bring a female friend (most other places don’t care). Japan is so mean, why can’t guys take stupid over-the-top fancy dress pictures too? It’s like Japan is putting limits on what men can do and trying to prevent emasculation with rules – guys doing purikura isn’t going to hurt anyone. Even the arcade machines have a picture of a boy or a girl on the machine to indicate gender – surely people can decide for themselves? In fact I’m sure there’s a perfectly sound argument as to why purikura is harmful to girls too – it enlarges your eyes and erases any spots or blemishes – is it warping beauty standards into something impossible? I’m sure some girls are affected by this but I think for most it’s just good fun, though perhaps an indicator of Japanese beauty standards being unrealistic.

If you do visit Japan, I’d try purikura at least once, just for the experience. You won’t find it anywhere else in the world and its pretty funny to see how they come out.

京都 The Great Myth: Dining in Kyoto

Today I want to address one of the main stereotypes I heard about Japan when I was living in the UK. “Japan is so expensive!” people cried whenever I mentioned I was doing a year abroad there. I was worried, would I never eat out again? Would I be trapped in my room crying over overpriced ramen? Turns out this is totally a myth. You can eat out in Japan way cheaper than in the UK. In fact, it gets to the point that you feel like eating out is actually cheaper than cooking at home. In addition there is a huge range of restaurants in Kyoto – you can get pretty much any cuisine if you want it (though we have yet to track down somewhere selling Greek food).

Warning: this post might make you hungry, it certainly had that effect on me.

Let us go then, you and I, on an adventure into Japanese dining.

When you sit down to eat in Japan you are rapidly presented with a cup of tea (hot or cold) which is then refilled as often as you finish it throughout the meal, for free. I tend to judge a restaurant based on whether or not I like the tea – there is a huge variety. You can always ask for water (also free) if you don’t like it. In the UK this doesn’t seem to happen outside of Asian restaurants, which is a shame as tea costs basically nothing.

Japanese dining achieves new heights of affordability with the wonderful ‘Set Menu’ (定食 – Teishoku), which means that not only do you get free tea with your main, you also get miso soup, pickles and whatever else they’ve decided to give you. Compared to the normal menu items, set menus are usually only a few hundred yen extra (usually around £1.5o). This means that you can completely stuff yourself for around 1000円 (£5.40) and probably not want to eat much for the rest of the day (they are always very generous with the rice). Set menus can be found in almost any type of restaurant – not just those serving Japanese food!

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Thats right, almost all of these meals were under £10. I think the sushi was more like £14 but you get the idea. Also check out the tempura’d egg. The yolk was runny and everything. A lot of these restaurants can be found in the dining area below Kyoto station.

If you’re indecisive or fussy and won’t commit more than, say, £1.50 to a dish, Japan has the answer. That answer is Izakaya (居酒屋). The best way to explain izakaya is to say they are essentially pubs, but better (if you don’t mind one kind of lager). The cheapest izakaya have everything on the menu at the same price, usually around 280円 (£1.50). This means that all the food and drink is the same (amazingly cheap) price. The big beer and the small beer cost the same. The malibu mixer and the jug of warm sake cost the same. The gyoza and the chips cost the same. The questionable looking chicken gristle and the ‘camembert’ (think very mild, melty plasticy cheese) cost the same. This means that you can eat very well and get reasonably drunk for a very affordable price. I’d say we need these in the UK but I fear people would never leave.

A downside for non-Japanese readers is that you may end up with some odd dishes – izakaya have a lot of ‘things on sticks’, including but not limited to, chicken heart, chicken cartilage, chicken skin, chicken guts, as well as normal chicken. If you can’t identify the difference when ordering you may be in for a slightly unpleasant and unexpected snack (chicken heart is actually pretty good though). I don’t have many pictures of izakaya food because I was too busy eating all of it.

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Yes, that big beer was only £1.50. I will cry when I next buy a pint in London.

The izakaya I would recommend is Torikizoku, a chain found all over Japan – all the plates are 280円 and the service is really fast. A downside to izakaya (and a mark of their success) is that on the weekend you often find yourself queuing to get in – most have an electronic sign in system where you input your group number and wait for a space. If you don’t want to queue, go early (around 6 or 7), especially if you are a big group. After about 9 or 10 most people in the izakaya have settled in for a night of drinking and are unlikely to leave and make room for your group.

Even cheaper than the izakaya, if you aren’t drinking, are the conveyor-belt sushi places (回転寿司- kaiten-zushi) where the price of a dish is usually between 100円 and 140円. I would recommend Musashi Sushi in Sanjo for a fantastic sushi expeirence – they have so many different dishes and the conveyor-belt is always threatening to overflow with plates even when they’re busy. There is also Kura Sushi in Imadegawa Horikawa which gives you the chance to win a toy every 5 plates (I haven’t won yet, I think its pure luck).

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But what if I want a nice meal? By this I assume you mean expensive, as in Japan even the really cheap stuff is good – I’m fairly confident you bring shame on your family by producing bad food in Japan. In that case, then yes you can spend 円円円 on the top Kobe beef and top-notch sushi, but honestly, it’s not necessary.

I ‘splashed out’ on my birthday, and by that I mean I spent more than a fiver on dinner. We got the 6 course menu each, costing a whopping 2000円 each (£10.80) and it was fantastic. We were the only customers in this beautiful old town house sat at the black and red lacquered counter (the kind where it looks like you’re sitting on the floor but there’s a hidden pit for your legs) and all of the food was beautifully presented. I was so full by the end. I only took pictures of a few of the courses because it feels a bit weird taking pictures with the guy that made the food standing at the counter in front of you.

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I have a lot more to say on the topic of food so I will probably be writing more about specific places I’ve been to soon, but I thought that the view of Japan as ‘too expensive’ needed fixing. Though if you’re buying fruit in Japan be prepared to see a melon priced at £60.

Apologies if this made you hungry! If you have any ideas for posts, do let me know (anything you want to know about living in Japan?).